Не говорите ерунды! инфракраснаяфотография без шопа не рулит!!!
а причем тут фотошоп?? догадаться сможете, что первые фильтры/снимки (на пленку) появились задолго до фотошопа...
теперь о видимости не видимого:
глядеть нужно на лес и небо.. есть и более показательные примеры, это то, что быстро нашлось.
+ для особо любознательных посмотрите старые советские книжки по теме. там есть очень много неожиданных и интересных применений - например в медицине (смотрят сосуды)!! причем без всякого фотошопа 50 лет назад
так а фильтр тогда зачем? хотя, но до конца не осознал..
Traditional "true IR" films were sensitive only to the blue/violet/ultraviolet of a non-dye-sensitized film, and to red and infrared. Yellow and green light had very little effect: this was called the "green gap." Efke's IR 820 has no "green gap" but is dye-sensitized to all wavelengths, just like (say) Ilford's HP5 Plus but with additional IR sensitization. Abandoned Medieval Bridge, Northern Aquitaine Handheld photography is perfectly feasible with the right lens: here, a 50mm f/2 DR Summicron on a Leica M2, with a B+W 092 filter. You can see light strike beside the sprocket holes, and some frames were actually written off by light strike: this was a film I loaded by very subdued light, to see what would happen. If the film has a "green gap" you can get detectable IR effects with even an orange filter, but with panchromatic-plus-IR sensitization, you really need a true IR filter with a T50 (50 percent transmission) of at least 695nm, and preferably 710-720nm: this is certainly the case with 820. I did not try a filter with a T50 of 760nm or more, because I do not own one--but I do not own one because film speeds with such filters are even more miserably low than with the filters I do own. The least expensive option for true IR filtration is probably Ilford's gel (T50 715nm), but this needs some form of holder.